This SD card shield is a standard SD card / TF card break out board for Arduino. The SD card shield adds storage to your Arduino project.
Stackable SD Card Shield is a stackable design Arduino SD / TF card expansion board. It supports direct insertion in the Arduino board to extend SD / TF read and write functions.
SD / TF card expansion board uses the Arduino hardware ISP interface, so only supports SIP mode SD / TF card.
This expansion board uses only a handful of Arduino pins, so the stack design allows you to plug in another expansion board on this board, provided that the same SPI pins are not used, such as Bluetoo
Many electronic enthusiasts have provided Arduino with a simple documentation program. And we provide a simple TinyFAT file system library, you can easily achieve Arduino control SD / TF card reader –
Specification: HiLetgo Stackable SD Card Shield for Arduino
Brand
‎HiLetgo
Manufacturer
‎HiLetgo
Model
‎3-01-0060-A
Product Dimensions
‎7.87 x 7.37 x 3.05 cm, 22.68 g
Item model number
‎3-01-0060-A
Flash memory type
‎Micro SD, SD, SDHC
Hardware Interface
‎Bluetooth
Compatible Devices
‎Personal Computer
Batteries Included
‎No
Batteries Required
‎No
Wireless Type
‎Bluetooth
Has Auto Focus
‎No
Programmable Buttons
‎No
Item Weight
‎22.7 g
5 reviews for HiLetgo Stackable SD Card Shield for Arduino
4.0out of 5
★★★★★
★★★★★
3
★★★★★
1
★★★★★
0
★★★★★
0
★★★★★
1
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★★★★★
EPR review –
Purchased this product to log data from an Arduino UNO. I have the chip select set properly. I have attempted multiple SD cards and have formatted the card properly. The system won’t even initialize using the Arduino sample code. It appears to be very straight forward to use but doesn’t work unless I’m missing something obvious.
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★★★★★
G. Linn –
Needing some way to store and log data, I decided that an SD shield was the quickest, easiest, way to start. Looking online, there appear to be ways to pass data from the Arduino to a Windows file, but this looked too complicated to start with. My application is to build an eeprom programmer to program 2708s for my 30 year old 6800 computer.
This shield seemed like a good, cheap, place to start. It came quickly, but there wasn’t any box, instructions, or schematic. I could live without these but I was curious as to what the “3.3v/5v” switch did. This board is labeled version “2.0”. Usually, you can go online and download whatever instructions/schematics you need. I found some info on version “1.1” but not “2.0”. So, I just set the switch to “3.3” and pressed on. I know that SD cards require 3.3v or you could damage them.
I installed the shield on a Mega 2560 R3 Arduino. I needed this version because I need a lot of I/O pins for my prom programmer. In general, I like to stick with the Mega, and, you can find it somewhere online for about $15. This makes it relatively cheap to dedicate a board to a project. In general, the Arduino designers did a good job with pin layout among the different Arduino boards. You can plug any shield, in general, into any Arduino as long as you “match” up the pins which are marked. But, as I will explain, this doesn’t mean that it will work.
So, I installed the shield on my Mega and ran the “Cardinfo” example in the Arduino IDE SD example file. This just reads the SD card and tells you that it’s there, wired correctly, and communicating. It didn’t work! Examining the code, I saw that one might have to change the ChipSelect pin (a.k.a., SS) depending on whose card you have. The default is “4” but it looked like it should be changed to “10” as noted. So, I did that and it still didn’t work!
I tried another SD card but that didn’t work either. I know the two cards were “good” because I could read and format them with my Windows PC. Digging more deeply, I found that this shield would NOT work “as-is” with the Mega. That’s because communication with the SD card is via SPI and the SPI pins on the Mega are DIFFERENT than on a Duemilanove, for example, which I also have. So, I put the shield on the Duemilanove, changed the chip select pin to “10” again, and Cardinfo ran as expected! Note that when you compile using the IDE, you have to CHANGE the target board to the board you are using or it just won’t work.
Looking online, I see that someone had simply jumpered the “standard” pins, 10, 11, 12, and 13, to pins 53, 51, 50, and 52, respectively, on the Mega. Note that when you look online, you will find that there is some confusion as to which pins are jumpered to 11 and 12. The jumpers I listed worked okay. Also, when you modify the code, make sure that you replace “10” with “53”. If you use this method, you should not try to use 10 through 13 as outputs as it’s not good to drive an output with another output.
I’m not done with my testing so there may be other problems. For example, the jumpers may work okay but there’s always concern about lead length and grounding. I also found that there are other SD libraries out there but I’m not ready to try them yet. Also, I found references to creating a “software” SPI interface that might be able to use pins 10, 11,12, and 13. But, this seems like another unnecessary complication at this time. I found that AdaFruit had a good tutorial on SD cards.
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★★★★★
Dean –
Has worked flawlessly for two months. I reduced this to four stars because, with the Arduino Uno, the shield requires the use of two of the analog pins, leaving you with only four.
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★★★★★
AJC –
Was super happy that it worked with the default Arduino sketch. I looked at the traces on the board and Chip select is 4 looked a the sketch and it had 4 as the chip select already. There is a switch on mine for TF/SD. SD is for the full size SD slot and TF is for the smaller SD cards. No instructions needed for this one works just like the default one is setup.
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★★★★★
cosmic –
With instructions the setup is very straightforward, unfortunately, it took me an hour to find good instructions for version 3.0 of this SD shield:
I found them by googling “SD shield 3.0” and clicking on the iTEAD wiki link. This wiki page will be referred to from now on as “the wiki instructions”.
In summary:
– Put the SD shield on whatever arduino you have. Using the labels on the shield and arduino, make sure the pins match. – Use the wiki instructions’ “Compatibility” section to find out what position the 3.3V/5V selector switch should be in, and whether you need to remove ALL 3 of the adjacent SPI Jumpers on the top of the board given the arduino board you’re using. For the arduino DUE I had to remove these jumpers and keep the switch on 3.3V. It looks like for all but the Iteaduino MEGA 2560 it doesn’t hurt or is required to remove the jumpers, including the arduino MEGA. – In the arduino IDE, use the “cardinfo” example, found through File > Examples > SD > cardinfo. Then just load the example on your arduino and see the results in the Serial Monitor.
Unlike another review stated, I did not need to change the chipSelect from 4 to 10 in the cardinfo example (or any of the SD card examples), just leave the example as is for the V3.0 board.
Nice cheap board, works so far, no problems after proper setup.
For reference I used a SanDisk ultra 80MB/s 32GB card. Though from what I understand any micro or standard as card should work. Speed will be limited significantly, <<2MB/s, since the card is written to using spi.
EPR review –
Purchased this product to log data from an Arduino UNO. I have the chip select set properly. I have attempted multiple SD cards and have formatted the card properly. The system won’t even initialize using the Arduino sample code. It appears to be very straight forward to use but doesn’t work unless I’m missing something obvious.
G. Linn –
Needing some way to store and log data, I decided that an SD shield was the quickest, easiest, way to start. Looking online, there appear to be ways to pass data from the Arduino to a Windows file, but this looked too complicated to start with. My application is to build an eeprom programmer to program 2708s for my 30 year old 6800 computer.
This shield seemed like a good, cheap, place to start. It came quickly, but there wasn’t any box, instructions, or schematic. I could live without these but I was curious as to what the “3.3v/5v” switch did. This board is labeled version “2.0”. Usually, you can go online and download whatever instructions/schematics you need. I found some info on version “1.1” but not “2.0”. So, I just set the switch to “3.3” and pressed on. I know that SD cards require 3.3v or you could damage them.
I installed the shield on a Mega 2560 R3 Arduino. I needed this version because I need a lot of I/O pins for my prom programmer. In general, I like to stick with the Mega, and, you can find it somewhere online for about $15. This makes it relatively cheap to dedicate a board to a project. In general, the Arduino designers did a good job with pin layout among the different Arduino boards. You can plug any shield, in general, into any Arduino as long as you “match” up the pins which are marked. But, as I will explain, this doesn’t mean that it will work.
So, I installed the shield on my Mega and ran the “Cardinfo” example in the Arduino IDE SD example file. This just reads the SD card and tells you that it’s there, wired correctly, and communicating. It didn’t work! Examining the code, I saw that one might have to change the ChipSelect pin (a.k.a., SS) depending on whose card you have. The default is “4” but it looked like it should be changed to “10” as noted. So, I did that and it still didn’t work!
I tried another SD card but that didn’t work either. I know the two cards were “good” because I could read and format them with my Windows PC. Digging more deeply, I found that this shield would NOT work “as-is” with the Mega. That’s because communication with the SD card is via SPI and the SPI pins on the Mega are DIFFERENT than on a Duemilanove, for example, which I also have. So, I put the shield on the Duemilanove, changed the chip select pin to “10” again, and Cardinfo ran as expected! Note that when you compile using the IDE, you have to CHANGE the target board to the board you are using or it just won’t work.
Looking online, I see that someone had simply jumpered the “standard” pins, 10, 11, 12, and 13, to pins 53, 51, 50, and 52, respectively, on the Mega. Note that when you look online, you will find that there is some confusion as to which pins are jumpered to 11 and 12. The jumpers I listed worked okay. Also, when you modify the code, make sure that you replace “10” with “53”. If you use this method, you should not try to use 10 through 13 as outputs as it’s not good to drive an output with another output.
I’m not done with my testing so there may be other problems. For example, the jumpers may work okay but there’s always concern about lead length and grounding. I also found that there are other SD libraries out there but I’m not ready to try them yet. Also, I found references to creating a “software” SPI interface that might be able to use pins 10, 11,12, and 13. But, this seems like another unnecessary complication at this time. I found that AdaFruit had a good tutorial on SD cards.
Dean –
Has worked flawlessly for two months. I reduced this to four stars because, with the Arduino Uno, the shield requires the use of two of the analog pins, leaving you with only four.
AJC –
Was super happy that it worked with the default Arduino sketch. I looked at the traces on the board and Chip select is 4 looked a the sketch and it had 4 as the chip select already. There is a switch on mine for TF/SD. SD is for the full size SD slot and TF is for the smaller SD cards. No instructions needed for this one works just like the default one is setup.
cosmic –
With instructions the setup is very straightforward, unfortunately, it took me an hour to find good instructions for version 3.0 of this SD shield:
I found them by googling “SD shield 3.0” and clicking on the iTEAD wiki link. This wiki page will be referred to from now on as “the wiki instructions”.
In summary:
– Put the SD shield on whatever arduino you have. Using the labels on the shield and arduino, make sure the pins match.
– Use the wiki instructions’ “Compatibility” section to find out what position the 3.3V/5V selector switch should be in, and whether you need to remove ALL 3 of the adjacent SPI Jumpers on the top of the board given the arduino board you’re using. For the arduino DUE I had to remove these jumpers and keep the switch on 3.3V. It looks like for all but the Iteaduino MEGA 2560 it doesn’t hurt or is required to remove the jumpers, including the arduino MEGA.
– In the arduino IDE, use the “cardinfo” example, found through File > Examples > SD > cardinfo. Then just load the example on your arduino and see the results in the Serial Monitor.
Unlike another review stated, I did not need to change the chipSelect from 4 to 10 in the cardinfo example (or any of the SD card examples), just leave the example as is for the V3.0 board.
Nice cheap board, works so far, no problems after proper setup.
For reference I used a SanDisk ultra 80MB/s 32GB card. Though from what I understand any micro or standard as card should work. Speed will be limited significantly, <<2MB/s, since the card is written to using spi.